The soldering iron is mainly composed of a soldering iron tip and a soldering iron core. The shape of the soldering iron tip has two types: a pointed tip and a square tip. The pointed tip iron has a small volume on the soldering part and can transmit less heat. It is suitable for soldering pins with denser Integrated blocks, areas with dense solder joints on printed circuit boards, and places where only spot soldering is possible. The square-head soldering iron acts on the welded part with large volume and can transmit more heat, and the temperature rise obtained by the solder joint is higher, which is suitable for welding components with a large solder joint area.
The newly purchased electric soldering iron needs to be tinned before it can be used, otherwise it will not be used for a long time. The soldering iron cannot eat tin due to oxidation. If you use a soldering iron that does not eat tin to solder, it will not only cause virtual soldering but also often scorch the printed circuit board. The specific method of soldering tin is to use light sandpaper to lightly polish the front end of the newly purchased soldering iron tip to remove the oxide layer to facilitate tin coating. The length of the soldering iron is about 31 mm, and then the soldering iron is energized. When the rosin is smoking, add the solder wire evenly to the polished part of the soldering iron tip. After the solder melts, cover all the polished part of the soldering iron tip. The tin plating of the new soldering iron was completed.
Tubular pin components, tin and solder them, a quick and effective method is to use a small hacksaw to cut a slot with a length of about Zmm along the axis of the square-head soldering iron head, and fill the slot with solder during soldering, and then Letting the tubular pins pass through the notch, this method can not only tin-plate the above electronic components uniformly, reduce the virtual soldering but also shorten the soldering time to prevent the components from burning out.
Due to the long storage time of some electronic components, there is a layer of oxide film on the component pins. This layer of oxide film is relatively thick. These oxide films cannot be removed with the help of rosin. Sanding or a small knife must be used to gently scrape off the components before soldering. The oxide film on the foot is then plated with a layer of solder. If the production date of the electronic component is relatively close, the oxide film on the pin can be removed by rosin during the tin plating process. Sometimes the copper pad on the printed board has serious The signs of oxidation must also be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper and then tinned. This can effectively prevent false soldering.
Before the electronic components are installed, the pins must be tinned, and then installed on the printed board as required. The amount of solder on the solder joints should not be too much or too small. Its shape just fills the pad with the bottom surface and the side surface. In order to obtain such a shape of the solder joint, the tip of the soldering iron should leave the solder joint upward along the lead of the electronic component to ensure that the solder joint is smooth and full. After the solder joint is cooled Then, use nail clippers or diagonal pliers to cut off the long pins from the tip of the solder joint.
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